On a houseboat in Kerala.

One of the things that just has to be done when in Kerala is a houseboat tour. After finding out how much our resort were charging we did a little investigating in Alappuzha, and viewed a few boats. We went with our resort as the price was fair and we got picked up right outside our front door.

For Rp6000 (£68) we had a well kept boat to ourselves with a crew of three for almost 24hours ( The captain, second and chef ). We were picked up at 11.30am and immediately given a coconut each with a straw sticking invitingly out of the top. After this is drunk the chef chops it in two and the flesh eaten.

The day before we had taken a canoe trip and had

seen all of the small waterways that branch off the large lakes and rivers. It was very intimate 

with the locals going about their daily business. Today we would see the wider rivers and lakes.

The water is truly their life. From bathing and fishing to washing and commuting.

There are homes and small buildings along all of these smaller tributaries, barely any space between

them for any other. 

Old women are stooped on the steps up to their thighs or waists washing out the various metal pots 

used for storage and cooking. And if it's not metalware then it's clothing. Every few metres there 

will be a flat stone adjacent to the steps that is used as a base for soaping and scrubbing, 

and when the garment is deemed clean enough it is rinsed in the river and slapped heavily in a 

wheeling motion on the rock, the sound echoing almost continually through the palm trees and

pandanus shrubs and then bouncing off the water into the sky. After walking to anothers house it

is common to rinse the feet and sandal before entering the property.

This 'Venice of the East' is of course polluted. The detritous of everyday life floats by and there

is the rainbow coloured splotches of diesel and oils on the surface. The Keralans that inhabit this

waterside scoop up a handful and sloosh it around the mouth before spurting it out again. I suspect

this is a form of prevention. Along with the rice that is grown almost everywhere here fish and crustachea

are part of the food chain that is in constant contact with this water. This is no place for an 

aquaphobic. 

And talking of food, it's lunchtime. Some Keralan rice which is large, light and fluffy, okra fried off

with slivers of coconut, some small pappads, a curd raitha, a bowl of finely chopped coconut with

other unidentified items, vegatable sambal and two small river fish which have been fried in a spicy 

coating. And as ever it is quite delicious!

We return to the upper viewing deck after and continue taking in the amazing vista. By late afternoon we have

turned off of the river onto Vembanadu lake which is huge and the paddy fields which line the other

sides of the retaining walls stretch to the far horizon. It is a busy area and many other boats are now

converging to one of the banks where there are rows of shops. We buy a couple of giant freshwater prawns to

supplement our dinner ( as if that were needed! ) and have a quick head and face massage. The latter 

leaves us feeling nicely mellowed and ready for the first beer which has been chilling in the fridge.

After about another hour or so we moor up for the night alongside many of the other boats that have

been out that day.

And then dinner time! Similar to lunch but with chapatis, chicken curry, and a lentil dal and the prawns

we bought earlier. A wonderful end to the day. I was gently awoken the next day by the first houseboat

leaving, the thrum of the diesel and then the wake gently undulating our vessel. Breakfast was a light

ommelette with toast and jam, coffee and freshly cut pineapple. Needless to say, today will be a day

of little food! Within minutes of finishing we were back

at base. A fantastic experience which will remain a high point of our time in 'God's own country'.